Carlisle Winery
Unveiling the Stories Behind the Vineyards
On a beautiful August morning, we drove along the picturesque Starr Road in our family’s vibrant red 2CV Cerise. Accompanied by my brother Alain, we embarked on an exploration of flavor and history at the renowned Carlisle Winery. Established almost three decades ago by Mike Officer and his wife Kendall, this winery carved its legacy with a focus on crafting old-vine Zinfandel and Rhône varietal blends.
The narrative of Carlisle Winery finds its roots in a tale of diligence and determination. Mike spent years navigating the crossroads of his full-time job in San Francisco and his passion for winemaking. As Mike was looking for ways to become a full-time winemaker, fate intervened as he became reacquainted with his college companion, Jay Maddox, who ventured at the same time into winemaking through a degree at UC Davis. This convergence enabled Mike to embrace his calling fully, relinquishing city life for the sanctuary of the vineyards.
A new pivotal moment materialized a decade ago when Mike and Kendall acquired land on Starr Road, just west of Highway 101. Their expansion included cellars capable of accommodating an annual production of 8000 to 10,000 cases, which is the maximum that the winery can produce since the winemaking team is only three strong.
In our conversation, Mike described the historical mosaic woven into Sonoma County’s viticultural fabric. He recounted the earliest wine making eras in California where grape variety blends were shaped by a different ethos, focused on crafting wines under old world labels such as “Chablis” or “Claret.” This legacy of mixed plantings endured, becoming the foundation for the complex field blends that captivate Mike’s attention today. Armed with the tools of modern science, Mike delves into the DNA of these historical vineyards to help him decipher their intricate compositions. The University of Davis DNA services lend a hand in this endeavor, often unveiling enigmatic varietals such as the French Mallard or an only recently rediscovered Tuscan varietal. He utilizes the results of these explorations to produce wines that best resonate with the vineyard’s essence. A quintessential example is Mike’s “Two Acres” red, a testament to Russian River Valley’s terroir, wherethe use of co-fermentation knits a unique flavor profile. Mike developed the use of strategic pruning of these different varietals to be able to harvest them concurrently for the co-fermentation process.
Venturing further, our dialogue turned toward Mike’s passion for Gruner Veltliner. Mike introduced the Steiner vineyard owner to Wachau’s finest Gruner producers, which convinced the owner to plant Gruner, thereby supplying Mike with Sonoma County-grown Gruner. Situated atop Sonoma Mountain, the vineyard’s elevation of over 1000 feet begets grapes of exceptional quality. A meticulous custodian of tradition, Mike imported an Austrian 1200-liter oval upright cask to house Gruner whichhe unfortunately could not use during the last vintage due to the limited quantity of grapes harvested. Interestingly, Mike noted that he was happily surprised by the quality of his first bottling of Gruner. After more than a decade, the wine was still going strong with the wine’s acid structure being balanced by the traditional oily, peppery palate of older Gruner.
A reminder of Mike’s capacity to produce great Zin was the Carlisle vineyard designated Zinfandel, an embodiment of controlled exuberance. Here, strong cassis notes emerge on the nose while the palate show more balance and freshness than is traditionally found in local Zinfandel. Over the years, Mike gradually and intentionally evolved his winemaking to slowly bridge the gap between California’s bold tradition and a more refined approach.
Our visit to Carlisle reminded us that Sonoma terroir is shaped by a long history of experimentation and evolving tradition which makes it really special on the California wine scene.
Notable Wines Tasted:
Gruner Veltliner, 2022, Sonoma Mountain "Steiner Vineyard": Fermented in stainless steel barrels, this wine emanates a rich bouquet of green apple and citrus. The medium-bodied palate strikes a graceful equilibrium, marrying balanced acidity with a well defined palate. A white of culinary companionship, destined to age gracefully.
Russian River "Two Acres" Red Wine: An enigmatic blend encompassing Mourvèdre, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Carignan, Peloursin, Alicante Bouschet, and Zinfandel. Its aromatic profile mirrors a unique interplay of red berries and smoky nuances. The palate stands as a testament to harmonious equilibrium—acidity and tannins entwined, culminating in a lingering and delightful finish. A wine as intriguing as it is unique.
Mike pouring his “2 acres” blend from barrel